CUSTOM Garments

Jeff & Issha were looking for a stylized wedding that broke traditional norms. Modernize Tailors delivered a custom cut look that made their special day that much brighter.

an interview with issha marie

1) Tell us who you are and a little bit about yourself.

My name is Issha Marie, and I am a professional food, stills, and editorial photographer currently based in Vancouver, BC. I am also a practising florist and recipe developer and am currently working on writing my own cookbook. I work primarily out of a studio in Hastings-Sunrise that I have named Studio et Alia.

2) What garments do you have from Modernize and why are they special to you?

It is my now-husband who suggested we look into Modernize Tailors when we were looking for a custom-made suit for our wedding. I accompanied him for his appointment. It was never my intention to get something made for myself for our wedding, as I had planned to wear something off the rack initially, but I found a Filipiñana terno top off of a FilipinX-run boutique in Toronto and wanted an A-line yellow skirt with a slit to go with it. This specific skirt is difficult to find off-the-rack, so I asked Modernize to make that skirt for me. This is the skirt I ended up wearing for my wedding, though if I am being honest, it really was my husband's custom suit and pants that really stole the show, and Modernize played a massive role in that!

My husband and I quickly developed a friendship with Modernize soon afterwards, so we sought to collaborate on a few photographs for their website! As a trade for my photographic services, she made me a custom, oversized, single-button blazer in an almost Yves Klein-blue colour with a butter yellow linen lining the insides of my sleeves, for rolling. It's quite the statement piece! It's very 80's with a contemporary twist!

3) Tell us about your heritage. Does it play a role in the way you dress or view fashion?

I am a Filipina. I was born and raised in Quezon City, where I spent my childhood and part of my pre-teen years before my family made the big move to Toronto, Canada. I had lots of FilipinX friends throughout my life since my move from the Philippines, but as my years progressed in this country, I grew very distant from my own heritage, mostly because the familial traditions observed in my own culture—which are, at times, emotionally and psychologically damaging—did not resonate with the kind of freedom of spirit I wanted for my own life. I realise now that the feelings I had harboured against my own culture were symptoms of intergenerational trauma and the big 'C' word: colonisation.

I began an epic rediscovery journey of my heritage back in 2016, after I had read a recipe off of Bon Appetit that absolutely butchered halo-halo. Though cultural appropriation was not in any way a novel thing during that time, it was just starting to enter the collective consciousness as more and more people of colour started to speak out against it. It became a very hotly-debated, hugely-contested thing, especially when I started to engage my own friends about said article and why I had problems with Bon Appetit as an institution in the culinary world. A lot of people—mostly white people—really did not get what the big deal was, and I, and a lot of other folks who saw my perspective of the story, were therefore dismissed.

I did not really think of my heritage playing a role in my own fashion choices until I discovered Vinta in 2019—the maker of my Filipiñana terno top. Seeing their clothes styled in more modern applications brought back very visceral memories of my childhood, where I donned on a terno for a variety of special occasions and festivals observed in the Philippines. When my husband and I were planning our wedding, I had wanted both our respective cultures to shine in the colours and decor, and that terno top I purchased from Vinta for my wedding really sparked my obsession with implementing more of my culture's dress into everyday wear. I am also drawn to more tropical patterns these days, largely because it reminds me of my motherland.

4) Will you tell us a list of your influences and why they inspire you?

My influences are too long to list here; I am inspired by a lot—and they are not all people. Sometimes I see the way light casts shadows and I take a mental photograph of it to file away for later, so I can successfully recreate it in my home studio. These days, I am inspired by grocery stores, particularly various green grocers run by immigrant communities. They jog memories of my childhood in the Philippines that have not been unearthed in literally decades.

5) Off-the-rack versus Modernize?

Obviously not everyone can afford to get something custom-made, but the beauty of Modernize Tailors is that they do away with the usual conventions that surround bespoke clothing—you know... all the bells and whistles and fancy interiors— and focus specifically on the customer experience and the quality of the materials that go into your custom attire. They have been around for 100 years for a reason, and are a cornerstone of Vancouver's Chinatown. I really believe in investing in quality, custom-made pieces (if you have the means, of course) and mixing them with off-the-rack basics when building a more timeless wardrobe.

6) Do you feel a lot of difficulty shopping off the rack, generally?

For pants, particularly denim... oh my gosh, absolutely!!! I am petite, with an ample belly, large thighs, and a peach bottom, and a lot of pants out there do not cater to petite, dumpling-shaped women like me! It can be an extremely frustrating experience. Every person deserves to have a classic pair of jeans that last. My denim barely makes it beyond two years because of my lack of a thigh gap. I have no interest in obtaining said thigh gap; I like my body!!! But I deserve jeans that last!

7) Any thoughts about Vancouver's fashion?

Vancouver tends to have a very uniform look compared to cities like New York, Los Angeles, Paris, or even Toronto! This city tends to stick to trends and brands that are "hip" on social media. As much as I tried to fight the inevitable, after almost 13 years here, I too, am starting to look like a typical "Vancouverite" native: Blundstones, toque, raincoat, oversized linen sack dresses. But we also live in very different times! Working from home because of this pandemic has led most of us to prioritise comfort over flash, and to be quite honest, the older I get, the less I care about what trends are "trending". Wear whatever makes you feel comfortable. Really, wear whatever you want—within reason... like... please don't go to a wedding or the ballet in sweatpants, you know? Context, people! And don't subscribe to trends just because everyone on Instagram buys from *insert brand here*. A lot of people in Vancouver boast about sustainability in clothing, but fail to address that sustainability looks different to a household with a strict budget. No one should ever shame you for buying... say... five solid items that cost sub-$100 in total from a fast fashion store when that is, realistically, your new clothing budget for the year. Vancouver is one of the most expensive places in the world to live; not everyone can spend $120 and up on a shirt or a dress, and not everyone can afford custom-made pieces. For me, I much prefer seeking out small, family-run businesses like Modernize for thoe few special garments, and just be more mindful of the clothing I buy outside of custom. Do what is best for YOU and your budget.